Cadence is how many times per minute your pedals complete a full turn (rpm). There is no single best number: research does not show one cadence that is most efficient for everyone, so the practical goal is a comfortable rate you can hold without grinding or flailing, adjusted with your gears.
What cadence is, and what it is not
Cadence is the pedaling rate, measured in revolutions per minute. It is separate from wheel speed: the same speed can be reached with a high cadence in a small gear or a low cadence in a big one. Gearing is what links the two, which is why cadence and bike gearing are best learned together.
Typical ranges
Reference sources describe a common range for casual riders and a higher one for racers. Individual riders vary widely, so treat these as landmarks, not targets.
| Rider type | Typical cadence |
|---|---|
| Many recreational and utility cyclists | 60-80 rpm |
| Racers (often aim for) | 90-100 rpm |
Is higher cadence more efficient?
Not in a simple sense, and this is where many articles overstate. Studies of freely chosen cadence (the rate riders pick on their own) have repeatedly found that people choose a rate higher than the one that burns the least energy. The evidence on why is still mixed, and the lowest-energy cadence also shifts with effort and fitness.
What a higher cadence in an easier gear does offer is a different kind of load. Each pedal stroke asks for less force, which spreads effort toward your heart and lungs and away from your leg muscles. Sustained low cadence in a hard gear is associated with more stress on knees, hips and back, while untrained riders who suddenly push a high cadence at high intensity tend to struggle. Both extremes are worth avoiding.
How to find your range
- On flat ground, ride at a steady, easy effort and shift until your legs feel smooth rather than loaded or bouncing in the saddle.
- Note the cadence. That is your natural rate for that effort.
- When the road tilts up, shift to an easier gear before your cadence drops far, so you keep turning the pedals instead of straining.
- If you always grind, practice short spells of faster pedaling in an easy gear and extend them over weeks. It feels awkward at first.
Knee pain that appears or worsens when you push big gears is a reason to shift down, and to check your saddle height and position; see how to fit a bike properly. Pain that persists is a reason to see a medical professional.
How to measure it
- Cadence sensor or cycle computer: a crank- or shoe-mounted sensor sends rpm to a head unit or phone; see cycle computers and GPS devices. Many bike computers show cadence only if they are paired with a compatible sensor, so check before buying.
- Counting by hand: count how many times one knee comes up in 15 seconds and multiply by four.
E-bikes and cadence
On a pedal-assist e-bike, cadence is still your tool: shift so you can keep turning the pedals steadily rather than lugging in a high gear. Some systems with automatic shifting let you choose the cadence that triggers the shift; one Rohloff handbook for a Bosch system lists a recommendation of 65-75 rpm for that setting. Ideal rates differ by motor and system, so check your manufacturer’s guidance. How the assist responds depends partly on the sensor type, covered in torque vs cadence sensors and hub vs mid-drive motors.
Sources
- Wikipedia: Cadence (cycling)
- University of Technology Sydney: The relationship between the preferred rate of movement and the most optimal cadence in the skill of cycling
- ACTIVE.com: What’s the Optimal Cadence for Cycling?
- Rohloff: Set cadence Automatic Function
Last reviewed: October 2026.